New Oleans, Megabus, Amtrak, Bartlett, TN

 

Plantation home in Garden District, New Orleans

Around late September I got a call from my brother, Jerry, about their upcoming trip to New Orleans with his church group.    “Would you like to join us?”     I hesitated due to the cost but when they offered an opportunity to stay in their room on a cot, “YES  absolutely.   I have never been to New Orleans!”

Wondering the best way to met them in Bartlett, TN, I checked Amtrak, Greyhound and Megabus.

When I realized Megabus offered Chicago to Memphis for $10 and the return trip for $20 plus a $5 fee, I hit the buy ticket on my computer.   The earlier you book the cheaper the price.  Others on the bus trip paid $40 to $70 for the same trip but booked later.  Long ride in a bus but Amtrak seems to take the same travel time for much more money.

Packed my usual travel stuff in a backpack and small wheelie to head for Memphis on a Thursday.  Since I live north of Chicago I took the Metra into Chicago’s Union Station ($6 rd trip for seniors).  Just a short walk thru the Amtrak part, up an escalator to Canal  St., left turn across the street to Megabus stop.    Went upstairs on the double decker and sat in the middle.

There was lot of room here and many empty seats with no one in front or behind me.   Since I didn’t know what to expect found the bus comfortable with seats that recline, foot rests, reading lite, air vent.  Also passengers were enjoying the WiFi and outlets for recharging items. The bus was clean with garbage bags by stairs wells and clean toilet downstairs was the size of airplane toilet.   I was surprised that there were no radios to hear or loud talking.   First stop in Champaign, IL just to let people off. Next stop 3:44 p.m. for half hour break at a Pilot Travel Center and McDonald’s.  Last stop at 7:10 p.m. for fifteen minutes.  I was  able to enjoy the scenery and finish a complete book during this 10 hr ride.    Both ways the Megabus did arrive about 20/30 minutes late.

Memphis, Tennessee

Jerry, Susan and her mom, picked me up at the Megabus drop in Memphis around 9:40 p.m.   What a treat to be picked up.  Usually traveling I have to find my own way.   Couch surfed at their house for two nights.  The next a.m. Jerry and I went to mass and coffee with friends in the meeting area of the church.   Then a breakfast of biscuits and sausage gravy at Moma’s.   Yep, I am down South.  

After a fun walk at an antique mall, Susan set up lunch  in a sun soak backyard which felt wonderful.  For dinner we met a group of 20 friends at Los Pilares for Mexican food. 

Tennessee cotton fields ready to be picked

FOUR A.M. Saturday up to meet the rest of travel group at the train station.  The City of New Orleans Amtrak train gave us an entire upper deck car and at 6:50 a.m. off to another new adventure.   Not far out of Memphis passed by first view of cotton fields ready to be picked.  At first glance I thought it was frost in the fields.  A lingering sun rise, Lake Pontchartrain ( has 5.8 miles longest  bridge), deer and many cranes also passed by the observation car windows.  A stop in Greenwood, Mississippi, so I had to get off for my first foot print in that state. 

Our groups personal train car

I had a piece of toast at the house but as the train rolled on out came goodies from our group of 38 including Amish deer sausage, crackers, cheese, egg salad, mini pumpkin muffins, Filipino vegetable rolls and Mojitos. Followed by a strong but delicious rum punch…….GOOD MORNING ALL!!  This group knows how to travel.

Met other people on the Amtrak.   A group of women, one from Chicago, who were visiting New Orleans for a few days and then take a cruise from New Orleans.   They were a fun group and you knew this group was going to have A GREAT TIME together.   A father and young  son were in the observation car so we agreed to watch both sides for deer.

The women Amtrak hostess had a fascinating background.  Her father was in the oil business so she was raised all over the world in Africa, Iran, etc.   Didn't come to the states until she was older.  Also had a sad story of a boyfriend who walked out on her and daughter after eleven years. 

Wow I have arrived in New Orleans!   Weather forecast shows perfect temp and sunshine while we are here.    Waiting for luggage an Amtrak security cop loudly announced for all to gather and proceeded to give a stern lecture about no booze on Amtrak, while walking around New Orleans and whatever else came to his mind. 

Best Western Courtyard

Got in line for a taxi to the Best Western Landmark on N. Rampart St.   Good location close to Bourbon St. and across from Louie Armstrong park.   Center open courtyard with three tier fountain, tables, loungers and pool.  Room had king bed, large TV, frig, desk, two-seater couch and the cot added for me.   As soon as I put my things in room I took off to see the sites.

Walked down Bourbon St. and met three young people with beads wearing masks.   I was surprise to see this thinking it was mostly for Mardi Gras.    I asked them about where you get the beads.   The young guy lifted up HIS shirt, took off a great, loop long bead necklace and put on my neck.   I like this way to getting beads.   Spent some time with them.   They had all just met and were resting on a stoop preparing for the evening fun.   Next block ran into three women maybe in their 30’s.  We spent some time talking shooting the breeze.   Now I was quite hungry and my legs were   tired.  They suggested I eat at NOLA’S a few blocks down.    So disappointed it was closed but close by was the New Orleans School of Cooking on St. Louis Street   They do have classes for $24 and you get to eat the great result.    Since it was 5 p.m. the only action was pralines being made.   A small box of about 12 was $8.  Their shelves were filled with a good variety of sauces and small cooking items for purchase.   Across the street at Spice and Tea shop picked up several good loose leaf tea varieties for $4.99 each package.

Starving with my bum knees throbbing I ate in a nearby corner restaurant.    A cup of jambalaya along with delicious crab cakes did the trick.

One of my researched stops was Madame Laveaus VooDoo shop which was the most authentic with old wood floors and varied “altars” behind glass.   One that especially interest me was the last with large African wood statues.  And of course to include their Catholic side was a icon of the Virgin Mary on one “altar” setting.  Lots of lotions, oils and plants and voodoo items.   A reader appointment can be had later in the evening.

Ladies looking for free drink can stop at this place on Bourbon St.and leave this article of clothing for their ceiling decoration.  I passed on this one.

Excited to see my first New Orleans street band coming at me.   Just some ladies waving handkerchiefs and about four music players.  Others saw street bands with brides.   Later that evening motorcycle cops close off the street by Hard Rock and  a terrific band stopped to do several jazz songs with people in wigs and decorative umbrellas dancing around.

Night view of New Orleans from Ferry

Dragged my legs to the Riverwalk where I took the free ferry for a very short ride across the river.  This gave a great view of New Orleans nighttime skyline.  Make it as far as Harrod's Casino but decided to take a taxi back to the hotel. ($10).  Got Jerry, my brother, and went down the the hotel courtyard to join a few others.  Susan took the haunted house tour which sounded great!

Sunday 11 a.m. mass by Archbishop Aymond.  There was a wonderful organ intro before mass and a great choir with trumpets and drums that rocked the "house."  I was amused by all the "Saints" jersey being worn on this game day.  Even a dad with a one-month baby in the same jerseys.  Outside of the St. Louis King of France Basilica founded in 1718 were wrought iron fences covered with very nice art work by locals.  (Reminiscent of areas in Paris.)

Also a painting of Pope John Paul was unveiled by a local artist  and dedicated by the archbishop.

Court of Two Sisters      My brother Jerry

Took a walk down Chartres St. to absorb the architect and then doubled back on Royal St. To Court of Two Sisters for Jazz Brunch with part of our group...good food and a good variety of New Orleans dishes.



Jerry, Susan and I wandered some more on Decatur St. to stop on the Moon Walk river benches right on the Mississippi River to view the large barges and local characters passing by.

Bathroom wall insert of Emeril/one of many

A stop by the French Market then took the Riverwalk trolley along the Mississippi to the last stop.


Walked the few blocks to Emerils for dinner in the Warehouse District.   The walls were red brick with large pipes still in view.  The open kitchen was fun to view.  Didn't seem anything like the action in "Hell's Kitchen."   Above the food pickup area were multi-glass partitions filled with dried pastas, beans, etc. as decor. The bathroom was tiled and filled with mini pics of Emeril and his wife....weird.  I had sushi  Yellow Tail tuna salad with Alberico Spanish wine ($13 a glass)...a very light meal.  Finished with Bailey's in decaf.

Eggs Ellen

Eggs Sardou and Eggs La Nouvelle Orleans

Monday  breakfast at Brennan's with some of the group in a semi-private back room.  Started off with brandy and milk ($10) at 10:00 a.m. (when in New Orleans......). Susan and I shared  so I asked the staff to have the kitchen plate the share.

Bananas Foster originated here at Brennan's

Later went to the World War II Museum via St. Charles trolley ($1.25).   Veteran's admitted free, senior and active duty price reductions.  The Pacific Theater, Home Front, Normandy and European theaters areas were all covered by pics, video interviews of personal experiences from both sides, short tapes and exhibits.

  A short upfee of $4 gets a ticket for the 4D movie "Beyond All Boundaries"....a must see!! This exclusive film narrated by Tom Hanks brings to life the action .   Twenty-seven speakers, shaking seats, pop up 25 ft guard tower, anti-aircraft gun fire and explosions sure to rattle you, falling snow, etc.  Beware there were a few tears during this presentation which hit close to the heart of those old enough to remember.

Back to St. Charles trolley for a ride through Garden District to view old plantation homes, Loyola and Tulane Universities.    This takes you along the same  route as the Mardi Gras parade.  For over a mile the trees were dripping with beads from the years past giving the look of Christmas trees in the glistening sun.

Mardi Gra beads in trees

On to the Acme Sea food and Oyster place for oyster soup, grilled oyster on the shell, soft shell crab, fries and gravey with Abita the local beer.  A very long walk back at night through Bourbon St. with a stop at Pirate's Booty for jazz, beer and rest.   Ladies of the evening in doorways, street performers, a football player type in a silver bra and tutu made the walk easier.    Stopped in the Music Legends Park filled with life-size statues of Armstrong, Goodman, etc.   Cafe Beignet, for coffee and beignets.

French Market

 For last morning slowly made my way past the basilica with a rest stop by the iron gates.  A street lady came by who was very talkative.   Cut to short story she kissed me on the forehead with a hug.  Her name was Angel....kissed by an angel that morning.  Went to the rest of the French Market where everything was cheaper.   The items you buy in town stores cost much less here.  A mask for $13 becomes $3 here, Mardi Gras magnets (great for gifts) in town $2.99 and at the market $1.  One end of the market is fruit and food kiosks.  The rest hats, trinkets, jewelry, soaps, clothes, etc.    Right across the street is a small Cafe du Monde gift shop and down a few blocks is a much larger Cafe du Monde shop with canvas bags, hand towels, hats, beignet mixes, chicory coffee, etc.


My goal was to purchase a Muffalata sandwich at the Central Grocery where they originated.   They had lots of goodies to buy for cooking, etc. but I just got in line for a half Muffalata which was already prepared.  This was my lunch on the train back to Memphis.  The father who created this sandwich had passed away and now the sons were in charge.  (Side note:  tasted great but the ones I purchase at home were better due to larger amounts of meat and cheese and had more  olive mix on them.)



Well that was three days in New Orleans.    On the Amtrak back spotted gaters in swamp along the tracks and crane's.   Overnight in Bartlett, TN and then 11 p.m. Megabus to Chicago for ($20) arriving at 9:20 a.m.  The bus was quite crowded this time but still had seat next to me empty.

PLACES AND PEOPLE OF NEW ORLEANS, OCTOBER, 2011

Group at Court of Two Sisters